The Good Shepherd
with Charlie Davenport – Day 4 and 5
Here I am continuing to rough bevel the last of the cut lines. As you can see the rough beveling leaves a “halo” around the beveled object. To eliminate this “halo” effect, all that is needed is to tilt the figure beveler back so none of the edges are in contact with the leather. The tilting back of the figure beveler switches the tool into a smooth matting tool. Using the tool in this way to mat down the bevel will eliminate and/or reduce the “halo” for a more realistic look.
Once all the cut lines have been beveled, it is time to move on to the “dotted” lines of the pattern. By using the figure bevelers to bevel an un-cut line, the result will be a less defined and more rounded edge. This effect lends itself well to the folds here.
After finishing all the middle ground beveling, I stopped for the day.
My goal for the day was to complete all the tooling, leaving just modeling and detail work for the next couple of days.
I used the F941 in the tight spots here to help define the leaves. As you can see, I try to drive the area outside the leaves down quite a bit so they will stand out more.
In the very tight areas, the F902 comes in very handy.
Pear Shaders work nicely for adding form to the rocks.
Here I used the F120 as a small double-sided beveler for the center of these leaves. I will come back later with the B202 R and B202 L to add additional texture to the leaves.
Using the F902 to start the grass takes a lot of time, but I feel is well worth the effort in the end.
Next, I used the F918 lightly to add some additional grass along some of the beveled lines. I also used it randomly over the areas that I used the F926 for another layer of texture for the grass.
I finished the day by added some additional texture to the areas between the rocks and grass with the M884 matting tool.
The remaining detail of the piece will done with modeling tools and a filigree swivel knife blade.