Monday, 22 August 2011

Simple Journal Project

 

Simple Journal

 

This journal is a very popular project for leather artisans; they are great for writing, sketching and scrapbooking. Anyone would cherish a gift of a handsome handmade leather journal. The paper used in this project is 5 ½” x 8 ½” (8 ½” x 11 ½” letter size paper cut in half). The size used here is a suggestion, it may be modified to fit any available sized paper with and overlap of ¼” on all edges. The journal, if modified could be used to hold trading card sheets to house your Artist Trading Card (4042-01) collection. The edges here are finished with an edge finish, but may have laced or stitched edges for a different appearance. You can also replace the eyelets and lace with Chicago screw posts.

 

MATERIALS USED:

9052-32 6/7oz Double Shoulder

9100-00 Natural Tooling Pigskin Lining

3953-00 Angled Utility Knife

6057-00 Al & Ann Stohlman Patterns Portfolio, Vol. 1 (Pg. 4)

6047-00 How to Carve Leather

3500-00 Tracing Film, 1 yd

8039-06 Modeling Tool Stylus

8170-00 Basic Seven Tool Set

6553-00 Craftool® Stamp (Acorn)

2607-04 Eco-Flo™ Gel Antique (Tan)

2612-01 Eco-Flo™ Carnauba Crème

31811-00 Craftool® Adjustable “V” Gouge or

8082-00 Craftool® Adjustable “V” Gouge

2525-05 Tanner’s Bond® Craftsman Contact Spray Adhesive

3003-00 Mini Punch Set

6464-01 Poly Cutting Board

1286-11 3/16” Brass Plate Eyelets

8094-00 3/16” Eyelet Setter with Anvil

5112-01 Tejas Latigo Lace (Black 1/8” x 4 yard card)

PATTERN: Simple Journal Pattern

STEPS:

1.)   Layout & cut the front and back cover from 6/7oz leather.

2.)   Dampen, trace, carve and tool a design.

3.)   Apply finishes of choice to front and back covers.

4.)   Gouge the flesh side of the front cover.

5.)   Cement the lining to the flesh side of the covers, trim, and then edge.

6.)   Punch holes for eyelets, and lacing or stitching if applicable.

7.)   Set eyelets.

8.)   Lace or stitch covers if applicable.

9.)   Assemble journal with paper and covers together with latigo lace.

 

©2010 by Tandy Leather Factory. All Rights Reserved.

Monday, 22 August 2011

“Euro” Style Book Cover

“Euro” Style Book Cover

This “Euro” Book Cover makes a great gift idea for the holidays, and an outstanding moneymaker.

MATERIALS LIST:

  • 9003-02 Royal Meadow Veg-Tanned Leather 3-4 oz; or 9157-33 Craftsman Oak 3/4oz
  • 9100-00 Tooling Pigskin Lining Leather (Optional)
  • 9156-02 Kangaroo Leather, Brown (for ½” Florentine lace); or any 1-1.5oz Finished Lining Leather
  • 3953-00 Utility Knife
  • 3606-00 Non-Skid Ruler
  • 8039-      Modeling Tools
  • 3770-04  #04 5/32” Drive Punch
  • 3082-00  Australian Strander
  • 3001-00  Safety Beveler (Optional)
  • 8072-00  Adjustable Creaser (Optional)
  • 8077-02  Keen Edge Beveler (Optional)
  • 1193-02  Jumbo Perma-Lok Needle
  • 2525-05  Tanner’s Bond Spray Contact Adhesive
  • 2655-01  Leather Weld 4oz

PATTERN: Euro Style Book Cover Pattern

Construction & Assembly

The first step is to be able to develop a pattern for your book. Fold a piece of paper around a book so that the paper extends at least ½” past the edges of the book. The flaps are usually one-half the width of the book (Fig. 1). Lay out the paper pattern onto the leather. Cut out the leather (Fig. 2). Apply a design to the cover and flaps if desired (Fig. 3 thru 4j). I used the “Repousse” technique as discussed in the previous post LEATHER REPOUSSE by Charlie Davenport to add the design to the leather. Apply a finish to the cover and flaps (Fig 5). Cement the oversized lining to the cover and trim (Fig. 6). Punch holes along the edge of the cover, at least ¼” in from edge of cover (Fig. 7). Thin the interior edges by skiving with the Safety Beveler (Fig. 8). Cement the edges of the pocket to the cover between the holes and the edge with Leather Weld. Cut ½” Florentine lace from thin leather or fabric (Fig. 9). Lace the edges of the cover with the Florentine lace (Fig. 10). Insert book and you are done.

 

©2010 by Tandy Leather Factory. All Rights Reserved.

Monday, 22 August 2011

Art Deco Styled Wallet

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Art Deco Styled Wallet

MATERIALS & TOOLS:

Petite Tooling Calf (9154-00)

Damascus Straight Trim Knife (35010-02)

Modeling Tools: (8039-02, 03, 04, 06)

Leather Weld (2655-01)

Disposable Applicator Brush (3442-00)

Eco-Flo Gel Antique: Mahogany (2607-06)

Mini-Punch Set (3003-00)

Glove Snaps: Nickel (1249-04)

Basic Snap Setter Set (8103-10)

Craftsman Contact Cement (2525-01) – (Optional)

Natural Tooling/Lining Pigskin (9100-00) – (Optional)

PATTERN: Art Deco Styled Wallet Pattern

 

Directions

Using the pattern, I made a cardboard template for future use. Place the template on the flesh side of the leather you are going to use for the wallet. Now trace around the template. Once you have the pattern transferred to the leather, cut the pattern out with a trim knife.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you are using veg-tanned leather as I have for the  wallet, lightly dampen (case) the entire piece, and then transfer your design to the grain side of the leather.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you are going to use a swivel knife to cut the lines, be careful not to cut very deep, since the tooling calf is very thin.  I just stuck with the modeling tools and used the “Repoussé” technique.

To “SET” the raised design, I have applied a coat of Leather Weld glue to the flesh side of the design and allowed it to dry. I would only do this if you are planning on lining the project.

It is coloring time! I colored this wallet using just the Eco-Flo Antique Gel—Mahogany. Just apply some over the entire surface, and wiped off the excess. Once dry, I buffed the surface with a small piece of sheep wool scrap. Finally, I sealed the surface  with Super Shene.

Assembly

Once the project is dry punch a hole as marked on the flap portion of the pattern. Fold up the wallet (not to tight), and mark the spot where the snap hole lands on the leather below where the male end of the snap will go. You will want to set the male part of the snap prior to  installing a lining. When setting the glove snap use extra caution as not to strike to hard or the snap will cut through the leather.

If you are going to line your project as I have done here, you will need to flip the project over so the flesh side is up. Apply contact cement to the flesh side of wallet, and to the flesh side of your lining leather. The lining leather should be cut larger than your project, and trimmed, once the glue has dried. Carefully join the two pieces of the project, and trim with the trim knife evening up the edges. You could also add an edge dressing for a more professional look.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After you have added the lining, you will need to re-punch the hole on the flap for the female portion of the glove snap.

If you are up for a challenge, you can cover the top part of the snap with leather stained to match. Just take a small 1” piece of scrap from cutting out the project. You will need to “skive” the leather to about half the thickness—be careful. Apply contact cement to the flesh side of the leather and the top portion of the snap cap. Once dry & tacky apply the leather to the snap folding the leather over to the back side, cut of the excess at the post. Continue to set the snap as normal.

 

Now you have an Art Deco Style Wallet that will hold bills (U.S. and Euros), and a credit card or two.

 

C. Davenport

©2010 by Tandy Leather Factory. All Rights Reserved.

Monday, 22 August 2011

Miniature Christmas Door Hanger

Miniature Christmas Door Hanger

MATERIALS:

  • Red Upholstery Leather (2” x 12”)
  • 3—1” Nickel Bells (#1321-01)
  • 3—1 1/2” Nickel Bells (#1321-02)
  • 1—1 1/2” Nickel Ring (#1165-06)
  • 1—Sm Double Cap Rivet (#1379-12)

TOOLS:

  • Rotary Cutter (#3042-00)
  • Australian Strander (#3082-00)
  • Rivet Setter (#8100-00)
  • 1 1/2” English Point Strap End Punch (#3199-01)
  • #2 Round Drive Punch (#3777-02)
  • #7 Round Drive Punch (#3777-07)
  • #14 Round Drive Punch (#3777-14

PATTERN: Miniature Door Hanger Pattern

Directions:

1. Take your strip of leather, using the Australian Strander cut a 1/4” wide strip. Set the 1/4” strip aside for now. (Fig. 1)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2. Cut the larger strip down to a width of 1 1/2” using the Rotary Cutter and a ruler as a guide.

3. Using the pattern as a guide, mark the location of the holes with an awl or pen.

4. At the fold line, using the #14 Drive Punch halfway onto the leather, punch notches for the ring. (Fig. 2)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5. Use the Strap End Punch for ends of  the strip as shown. (Fig. 3 & 4)

 

6. With the #7 Drive Punch, punch the six bell holes along the strip. (Fig. 5)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7. The last holes will be punched with the #2 Drive Punch for the rivet.

8. Now we are ready to assemble our project.

Assembly

1. Lay the larger strip of leather face down. Place the rivet  post up through the rivet hole. Add the 1/4” strip face down over the rivet post, and slip on the ring at the top as shown. (Fig.  6)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2. Fold over the top tab and onto the rivet post. Mount the rivet cap onto the post, and set with the rivet setter. (Fig. 7 & 8 )

 

3. Taking the  lacing strip, cut the tip to a point and insert it in through the top hole; back to front. (Fig. 9)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4. Insert the lace through the loop on the base of one of the larger  bells. (Fig. 10)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5. After the lace has been run through the bell loop, insert the lace back down into the same hole that is was brought up from. Pull lace through until it is tight, without any slack. (Fig. 11)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6. Repeat steps 3 thru 5, attaching remaining five bells. Trim off excess lace. (Fig. 12)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7. Once your miniature door hanger is complete, you could add some additional decorations such as the leather holly leaves made from the last blog project.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

C. Davenport

©2010 by Tandy Leather Factory. All Rights Reserved.

Thursday, 24 March 2011

“Carson” Credit Card Case w/ Charlie Davenport

NEW PROJECT!

“Carson” Credit Card Case

with Charlie Davenport

MATERIALS FOR THE “CARSON” CREDIT CARD CASE

Materials shopping list link to tandyleatherfactory.com

9154-00                Tooling Calf, 2/3oz (9” x 7”) Interior Pieces

9153-00                Tooling Goat, 2/3oz (5” x 7”) Exterior Piece

8039-06                Stylus

35010-02              Trim Knife

3606-00                Ruler

3465-00                Cutting Board

2655-01                Leather Weld, 4oz

3447-02                Flat Brush, 1”

8120-00                Glass Burnisher

8079-06                Overstitcher, Sz 6

88081-00              Pro Stitching Groover

31218-01              Awl w/ Blade

1195-00                Stitching Needle (2)

11207-01              Waxed Thread, White

2610-01                Super Shene, 4oz

PATTERN: Credit Card Case Pattern

Directions

STEP 1 – Transfer patterns to leather. (Stylus, Awl, or Pen)

STEP 2 – Cut-out leather parts. (Trim Knife, Metal Ruler, Cutting Board)

STEP 3 – Apply glue (Leather Weld) to flesh side of interior piece. Spread glue with brush and fold interior in half (flesh sides together). Apply pressure, and smooth with Glass Burnisher.

STEP 4 – Mark location of interior card pocket stitching. Set Stitching Groover to 10mm, and groove along stitching line. Using Overstitcher mark stitching holes inside groove. Using creasing attachment in Pro Groover tool, crease along top side of pockets on grain side. Apply glue on flesh side of pocket between stitch line and bottom of pocket. Align to bottom of interior piece, and join. (REPEAT STEP FOR OTHER SIDE POCKET.) Using Awl with Blade push awl blade through all three pieces where marked by overstitcher. Using “Saddlestitch” with needles and waxed thread, stitch interior together. Trim excess tread.

STEP 5 – Fold exterior piece at fold line, flesh sides together. Apply glue just along fold line. Insert interior section base down into fold.

STEP 6 – Set groover to 1/8 inch. Groove along both edges, on both sides. Use overstitcher to mark stitches, and awl to make holes for stitching. Stitch edges together with “Saddlestitch” and trim excess thread.

STEP 7 – Seal cut edges by applying Super Shene with a brush or small wool dauber.

©2011 by Tandy Leather Factory. All Rights Reserved.

Friday, 18 February 2011

LEATHER FLOWER w/ Charlie Davenport

LEATHER FLOWER PROJECT  with Charlie Davenport


LEATHER

• 3-5oz Veg-Tanned Leather.

 

TOOLS

• 3031-00 Precision Craft Knife, or

• 3048-00 Craftool® Super Shears

• 3230-00 Craftool® Rotary Hole Punch

• 8100-00 Craftool® Rivet Setter

• 8076-02 Craftool® Edge Beveler Sz 2

• 88013-00 Craftool® Hair Blade Tool

• Mallet

 

OTHER SUPPLIES

• 1271-11 Rapid Rivet, Medium, BrassPl

• 2602-09 Cova Color®, Orange

• 2602-10 Cova Color®, Turquoise

• 2611-01 Eco-Flo™ Satin Shene

• 3440-03 Paint Brushes

 

PATTERN TEMPLATES  Leather Flowers Pattern

Use the patterns to make your own reusable templates from heavy cardstock, bag stiffener, or other template material for future use.

 

CUT LEATHER

Layout your leather grain side up on your work surface, then place templates onto the leather and trace around the template with a stylus. Another way is to layout the leather grain side down, and trace around the template with a pen or pencil.

Carefully using a craft knife cut out your leather flowers.  Using the rotary punch, punch a hole large enough for the rivet in the center of the flower.

 

DESIGN WORK

Prep your leather pieces for design work, by dampening the leather. For an extra touch you can bevel the edges on the back with an Edge Beveler as shown. To shape the petals just pressed them between thumb and forefinger while the leather is still damp. Drag the hair blade tool across the center to add some addition texture.

 

COLORING

To apply some color to this project I used the Eco-Flo™ Cova Colors Turquoise and Orange once the leather had dried. I applied the color with a brush. Wait until colors are completely dry, and then apply a finish. I applied a thin coat of Eco-Flo™ Satin Shene with a brush, let dry.

 

ASSEMBLY

To assemble the flower, stack the petal shapes largest to smallest from the bottom aligning the rivet holes in the center. Insert the rivet post from the bottom of the largest piece through all three pieces. Place the cap onto the post. Place flower with rivet onto a hard surface, place rivet setter (concave side down) over rivet cap and strike sharply to set the rivet.

 

COMPLETED

©2011 by Tandy Leather Factory. All Rights Reserved.


 

Sunday, 16 January 2011

LEATHER VASE w/ Charlie Davenport

LEATHER VASE PROJECT

Materials Shopping List Link

LEATHER

• 4-5oz Veg-Tanned Leather (Sides)

• 5-6oz Veg-Tanned Leather (Base)

TOOLS

• 35010-02    Damascus Straight Trim Knife

• 35017-00    Small Round Knife

• 31811-00    Adjustable “V” Gouge

• 8117-01      Pointed Bone Creaser

• 3606-00      Ruler

• 8120-00      Glass Burnisher

• 8077-02      Keen Edge Beveler, Size 2

• 8121-00      Multi-Sized Wood Slicker

• 8039-06      Pro Modeling Tool, Stylus

• 8039-01      F/Small Round Spoon, PMT

• 88013-00    Hair Blade Tool

• 3465-00      Pro Cutting Board

• 3777-33      Drive Punch, Size 00

• 88081-00    Pro Stitching Groover Set

• 31218-01    Stitching Awl w/ Blade

• 1192-00      Harness Needles

• 3132-00      Stitching Pony

• 35048-00    Pro Swivel Knife

• Craftool® Stamps (B200, B197, F897,

S632, S864, F941)

OTHER SUPPLIES

• 11207-02    Waxed Linen Thread, Natural

• 2620-01      Gum Tragacanth

• 2225-01      Edge Kote, Black

• 3447-03      Flat Brush, 1-1/2in

• 2607-03      Eco-Flo™ Ant. Gel, M Brn

• 2611-01      Eco-Flo™ Satin Shene

• 3448-12      Synthetic Wool Pads

NOTES

• For a less advance project, omit the four external short pocket pieces.

• For additional instructions for some of the techniques discussed on the project (Basic Leather Carving, Hand Stitching, etc…) please watch our how-to videos: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/Leathercraft-Videos.aspx

PATTERN TEMPLATES

Use the patterns provided to make your own reusable templates from heavy cardstock, bag stiffener, or other template material for future use.

CUT LEATHER

Layout your leather grain side up on your work surface, then place templates onto the leather and trace around the template with a stylus. Another way is to layout the leather grain side down, and trace around the template with a pen or pencil. Carefully using a knife cut out your leather. Use a ruler for all straight lines for a cleaner cut.

The base piece requires some additional work to assist in folding the edge flaps. Use a ruler to mark the fold lines on the flesh side as shown on the template. Using a ruler and the Adjustable Gouge, gouge a channel from corner to corner about half the depth of the leather. I used the small round knife to widen the gouge to make the folding of the flap easier. Now is a good time to punch the stitching holes with a size #00 drive punch. Next, lightly dampen the gouged channels, and then start folding the edges with one hand and simultaneously run the bone folder down the channel. Repeat for other sides of base, and let dry.

DESIGN WORK

Prep your leather pieces for design work, by dampening the leather. Transfer a tooling design to the leather with a stylus.  After transferring design, cut the design into the leather with a swivel knife (only cut the solid lines, do not cut the dotted lines). Bevel all cut and dotted lines with a beveler. The F941 fits nicely in the “V”s in the center. After beveling all the cut lines, I will use a modeling spoon to round all the cut edges, smooth out any rough beveling, and add any additional design work.  Wait until the leather is almost dry prior to beginning the background design work. You can use any background or matting tool for this project, I chose to use a couple of seeders to fill the background areas. Lastly, I dragged the hair blade tool across the buds to add some addition texture.

DYEING & FINISHING

To apply some color to this project I used the Eco-Flo™ Antique Stain Medium Brown. I applied the stain with a synthetic wool pad, working the stain into all cuts and impressions. Wipe off excess stain with paper towel or rag before stain dries, and buff. Wait until stain is completely dry, and then apply a finish. I applied a thin coat of Eco-Flo™ Satin Shene with a 1-1/2” flat brush, let dry.

HAND STITCHING

There are a few different options you have at this point. The first and easiest way is to use the template and mark the placement of the stitching holes, and then punch the holes using a size #00 drive punch. The second option uses an awl and groover for a more professionally finished look.

ASSEMBLY

The first step to assembling the vase is to attach the exterior pockets to the larger side panels. Next step is to stitch two of the side panels together, then attach remaining panels. Once all four side panels are attached to, each other attach the base piece. Note: to add some additional strength to the project, I double stitched at the top of the vase and the junction where all four side pieces join.

EDGE FINISHING

After you have assembled the vase, it is time to clean up and finish the edges. The first step is to even up the edges; I use a straight edge knife to trim off the excess leather. Next, I used a size 2 Keen Edge Beveler to round the edges of the vase. To get a smooth polished edge I applied Gum Tragacanth to the edges and “slicked” with the Multi-Sized Wood Slicker until dry and polished. The final step is to apply an edge finish. I applied Fiebing’s black Edge Kote with a small wool dauber.

COMPLETED

This premium has been published by Tandy Leather Factory, 1900 South East Loop 820, Ft. Worth, TX 76140. Copyright © 2011 by Tandy Leather Factory, all rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced either in whole or in part without the consent of the copyright owner. Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document.